Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
